Siem Reap is the city closest to the most other-worldly collection of temples and ruins I have ever seen. Fly here from Bangkok, after you have enjoyed the joys of shopping for Thai silk and scarves. It takes less than an hour.

We have always stayed at the Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor. It is historical and well-run and very reasonably priced. Be sure to get breakfast included with your room, as you will want to be fortified for a morning of touring.

Our “program” as they say, has been to eat breakfast in the morning and then go out for two hours of touring. We then come back to the hotel for lunch, take a bit of a rest and then go out again around 3-4 pm for some more touring. We hired a Tuk-tuk driver and paid him $30 per day and he was fabulous. He knew all the temples and which ones would be crowded when and took us to some very cool out-of-the-way spots. Riding in the tuk-tuk is so much better than a car. You move slower and get to really see the countryside and the people.

Don’t worry about changing money at the airport. US dollars are the currency of choice. You can pay your hotel bill with a credit card, but have plenty of small bills for paying your driver, guides and for buying souvenirs at the markets. No one there takes credit cards.

You can hire a guide to go with you if you like or just look up the information online for each of the temples you visit. Kelly did the research and reviewed it while we had our meals, so we understood the history of this amazing place.

The hotel has some high end shops that are lovely and full of fabulous things — but a bit pricey. There is also an artist’s cooperative that has a large and lovely store, with lots of temptation. The general market and night market in town are full of small shops/stalls stocked with clothing, silk scarves, wood carvings, lacquer ware and all kinds of things you really don’t need. Take your time and chat with the ladies who run the stalls and you’ll have a great time bargaining prices for the treasures you find.

The people here are charming, kind and so lovely your heart almost breaks — knowing the violent history they endured under the Khmer Rouge. Since our first visit here 15 years ago, much has changed. The tiny shack that was the airport is now a huge multi-building complex and the road from the airport and many other roads are now paved. Tourism is alive and well here, as there are busloads of Koreans, Chinese and Vietnamese. Your driver can help you avoid the crowds. Just ask.