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I’m Terry and I love to travel.

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Seattle: my favorite places to stay, eat and see

July 6, 2016 by Terry Van Nortwick 4 Comments

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It just so happens that one of America’s fastest growing cities is also one of my favorite places to visit.

We just spent a week there on our way to Alaska and here are some special spots we think you’ll like.

Hotels: we like them small and well-located.

Inn at the Market is one block away from Pike’s Market, the must-see market where you’ll see flying fish, huge bouquets of flowers, produce that will make you wish you lived in Washington State and every variety of souvenir. This hotel is intimate, luxurious and has great service. If you can’t get an ocean-view room, be sure to check out the roof-top deck.

Our other favorite spot is the Alexis Hotel, located about five blocks from Pike’s Market (offers a bit more of a quiet scene). We’ve stayed here numerous times and love the staff who make you feel like home. Their suites are great if you have more than two people. Our niece Kelly had her own private living room area where we added a roll-away bed. The rooms are spacious and well-appointed. No two rooms are the same décor and the hotel features local artists, evening wine and appetizers and a cute restaurant /bar for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

If neither of these are available, check out Kimpton hotels. They own several properties in Seattle (besides the Alexis) and they are all first-rate (Hotel Vintage Seattle, Palladia and Hotel Monaco). They even allow dogs! And if you sign up for their loyalty program, you get free wi-fi and a $10 credit on food/beverage/mini-bar.

Restaurants: oh, the seafood

Seattle is know for its seafood and every tourist in town visits Ivar’s the famous seafood eatery – which now has locations all over the area.

On our recent visit, we found Rockcreek Seafood. It was so outstanding, we ate there twice – even after a huge lunch and a 4 pm reservation were all we could get. If you like spicey, try the calamari. This is probably not a place that kids will love, but any foodie will be glad to find it.

For a number of years we have eaten at Etta’s, a small casual café a block away from Pike’s Market. Its perfect location is a real draw, but the food is top-notch, too. Owned by Tom Douglas, the world renown chef and restauranteur.

If you’re in the mood for sophisticated Asian, try Wild Ginger. Located downtown, it is a hip place with great food.

Four favorite things to do in Seattle

Underground tour of Seattle. If you love history and want to learn how Seattle is built above the old city, climb down steps to the “basement” of Seattle and get some good laughs, this is a tour for you. One of our all-time favorite touristy things to do anywhere!

The Museum of Flight is filled with everything aviation.
The Museum of Flight is filled with everything aviation.
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Chihuly’s glass installation seems to float in the air.

Boeing’s Museum of Flight. Since we’re both pilots, we love this place. But you will, too. Great for kids. Schedule a full morning or afternoon. You’ll need it.


Dale Chihuly garden and glass exhibit at Space Needle park. No one should come to Seattle without seeing some of the fabulous glass created here by some of the world’s best artists. Dale Chihuly is the master and the new park at the Space Needle will blow (pun intended) your mind! A marvel of glass, creativity and color. Wow.

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Kelly and Ken enjoy the comfy seats at the front of the ferry to Victoria.

Day trip on Ferries. Ya gotta ride the ferry! Go anywhere, but enjoy the beauty of the area on a ferry. Can’t be beat.

 

I cracked the code to get into Cuba legally and on your own

March 18, 2016 by Terry Van Nortwick Leave a Comment

 
Havana is full of crumbling, but beautiful buildings.
Havana is full of crumbling, but beautiful buildings.

With President Obama poised to make his historic trip to Cuba, it’s time to share my secret on how to get to Cuba legally and inexpensively.

I’ve wanted to go to Cuba since I was a child growing up in Miami.

Despite the politics that always swirled around Cuba, I’ve remained enchanted. It was the forbidden fruit of travel and I had to have it.

Over the years I watched as family members were allowed to go and US tour groups went to Cuba. Some individuals flew through Mexico, Canada, Jamaica, the Bahamas and other countries to get in illegally.

There are any number of group trips available, but most are for a week or longer and often at prices I deemed too high ($3500-5000).

I yearned to go on my own and not deal with a busload of companions on a prescribed trip of someone else’s making. I wanted to see Havana and its art, architecture and culture and I wanted to be independent.

So I was thrilled when two important pieces of information came my way. First I got the email address and phone number of the woman who coordinates Airline Brokers’ charter flights to Cuba out of Miami. At about that same time, a friend who is a pastor at a local church, told me his church had sponsored a visit to Cuba a year or so ago. Why not go through his church?

The planets seem to have finally aligned. I asked my niece, Kelly, who is as big a travel junkie as I am (at age 32, she has visited 99 countries) if she wanted to come with me to Cuba.

We picked a date and I began the process of getting all the paperwork together.

Here’s the process to visit Cuba legally.

Alexis Lombana (arl@airlinebrokers.net) at Airline Brokers told me her team could handle our travel arrangements, book hotels, guides, shows and take care of necessary visas and the American license for travel.

Alexis sent us all the appropriate forms. A visa is required to enter Cuba and several forms must be completed to apply for it, along with reservation forms. Medical insurance is required by Cuba, as well. Alexis and her team sent us the forms, we filled them out and then Airline Brokers took care of processing. The cost of the airfare, medical insurance, visa and all processing was $555.31 per ticket round trip from Miami to Havana. Yeah, it seems like a lot to fly 90 miles, but I figured I would save by not being in a group and going for just a long weekend.

All U.S. travelers must obtain a U.S. government approved Cuba travel license. Licensing categories include an educational institutional license, a professional research license, or a religious activities license.

Check out http://LegalCubaTravel.com If you read this carefully, you will see that it is not difficult to meet one of these requirements for a license. To meet the religious license, all we needed was a letter on church letterhead from our pastor friend stating what we intended to do in Cuba. Since my niece is a musician, we said we were planning to research the effect of music on spirituality. We embellished the wording a bit, but no one ever asked to see the letter – other than the folks at Airline Brokers. Even coming back into the US, we walked right through customs with no problems. We were asked where we had been. Cuba. Why were you there? Church mission. Welcome back to the US, ladies!

The professional research category can work well, too. A friend, who is a physician (now retired), went and wrote a paper about his trip. Legal and perfectly acceptable.

Be ready for challenges in the arrangements

I had done research online and knew I wanted to stay at the Saratoga Hotel. I wanted a historical building with as much luxury as possible. I had heard that hotels in Cuba were not up to US standards and I’m not much of a roughing it kind of gal, so I wanted a hotel that was as nice as possible. (Beyoncé and JayZ stayed there on their recent visit!)

In our case, we thought we had everything arranged and were ready to go, when we found out the woman at Airline Brokers who had made our arrangements, was no longer with the company. When we finally got a tentative invoice for our hotel and guides, the price was more than I had expected ($3770). I asked for an itemized bill so we could deduct some items to get the bill lower and Airline Brokers was not able to supply it.

Two weeks before our scheduled trip Alexis connected us with Cuba Explorer Tours out of Vancouver, BC. In a matter of days, Leonardo Hechavarria put together our trip at a reasonable price ($2600) – complete with guide, a car and driver and a detailed itinerary of all the places we wanted to see.

The only hitch in the program was that we were unable to get into the Saratoga Hotel. Everything was booked and over-booked and we were scheduled into a junior suite at a 3-star hotel, Las Failes. (The Cuban government owns at least 51 percent of all the hotels and they can pretty much do whatever they like.)

When we arrived at Las Failes, we were told there was no junior suite, so we had to take a standard double room. It was clean and we were in a great location. Other than that, the air conditioner worked on and off and no one seemed to know how to make it run continuously. There were no windows in the room and the beds and pillows were OK, nothing more. We each got one towel and there was one hand towel between us. We stayed in the standard room for two nights and on our third night were able to switch to an available junior suite – which blessedly had huge windows and a balcony.

On the way in from the airport, our guide had told us that hotel reservations are “iffy” in Havana. So we weren’t too surprised and were able to be flexible – a quality that is highly necessary for a visit to Cuba.

Things to do and see in Havana

The Tropicana show is as glamorous and fabulous as you imagined.
The Tropicana show is as glamorous and fabulous as you imagined.

Cabaret Tropicana’s show – continually running since 1939! A two-hour show of dancing and singing with the most spectacular costumes and headdresses you’ve ever seen. Sure, it’s touristy there, but we loved it.

Buena Vista Social Club. These guys are still rocking and they give regular shows (when they are in Havana) at the Café Taberna, located in Old Havana. You can buy tickets to have dinner and see a show or just see the show. Our show started at 9:30 and we had 1.5 hours of solid Cuban music. Lots of fun and a real treat to see these famous and talented guys.

Old Havana is structured around squares. They are beautiful to see and the center of life for many Cubans. Don’t miss Revolution Square, San Francisco Square, Plaza Vieja.

Hemingway's house is a "must-see" while in Havana.
Hemingway’s house is a “must-see” while in Havana.

Finca La Vigia, the house and farm of Ernest Hemingway, now a museum. A popular spot, but well worth the visit.

Museum of Fine Arts, Cuban Collection. We had our own private guide who explained each decade of art from the early 1900s to present. Kelly and I are both art geeks, so we loved it. Be sure to get a guide, as the history of the island is so wrapped around all the art. And have US currency with you in small bills for tips to locals and guides. We tipped our museum guide $10 and knew it meant a lot to her.

Capitolio Nacional, the capital was being renovated, but it is an impressive edifice.

National Hotel, famous for hosting some of the world’s greatest celebrities, and once owned by the Mafia.

Jazz clubs are located all over town. Ask your guide for suggestions or wander around the streets until you see crowds and hear the music.

Museum of the Revolution. Sure it’s a one-sided presentation of Cuba’s revolutionary past, but a great way to learn about the island’s tumultuous history.

Kelly is surrounded by mosaic sculptures, walls and fountains.
Kelly is surrounded by mosaic sculptures, walls and fountains.

Fuster’s Gallery. A friend who visits Cuba often to see his family, told us about this artist and his home. It was one of the highlights of our trip. Fuster’s house looks like tile mosaic gone mad. Everywhere you look are walls, statues, fountains and structures – all covered with colored tiles. A real feast for the eyes. Fuster also sells art here.

Note: The good thing about a dictatorship is that the city is safe. You can walk anywhere and be totally safe. Men do comment about women from time to time, but we ignored the comments or had a few good laughs about them.

Restaurants

In old Havana, there are lots of small cafes and restaurants (called Paladars). Many are privately owned. If you walk around the city, just look for places with lots of people. Many of the spots have outdoor cafes, so you can see what people are eating and pick a spot that looks good. Our experience with hotel food was mediocre. Our worst meal was at our hotel and we ate at several of the larger restaurants that cater to tour groups and they were above average, but nothing fantastic.

 

It was one heck of a trip! Thank you all.

August 12, 2015 by Terry Van Nortwick 6 Comments

Thank you, Ken, Kelly, Lynn, Michele and the world.

A two-month round the world trip doesn’t happen overnight. The trip Kelly and I took to celebrate her doctorate was truly a family affair. Thank you to all of you – you are the best family ever!!!!

First thank you goes to my wonderful husband Ken for encouraging me to go on the trip. Although he was invited to join Kelly and me, he decided he didn’t want to be gone that long. So he cheered us on, took care of our dear Holly and held down the fort at home. Thank you, Ken for being the loving and supportive husband you always are! He never even asked how much it all cost!

There aren’t too many 31-year-olds that would eagerly agree to travel for two months with a 66-year-old aunt. But Kelly was all in from the first mention of the trip. In addition, she became the local tour guide, handled all the maps and directions and even learned what I liked to eat so well that I often asked her to order my meals!

Kelly was a delight to travel with, found humor in whatever we did – especially sitting in the Emergency Room in Israel. She followed in the family profession and turned out to be a great nurse, too. Thank you Kelly for being the smart, funny and sensitive person you are. You are the best traveling companion in the world!!!

Brother-in-law Lynn joined Kelly and me in Dubai and traveled with us through the UAE, Oman, Qatar, Bahrain and Kuwait. Lynn made us feel like princesses. He organized the cars and drivers, took care of all the tipping and even told us when to get up in the morning! (That’s an inside joke about one of our guides who thought Kelly and I were idiots – after Lynn returned home – and told us when we should get up and have breakfast!) Lynn, you were a joy to travel with and we especially thank you for the free rooms in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Bahrain. Thank you Marriott points!!!

Sister Michele was with us the whole way – at least in spirit. We Facetimed, Skyped and texted (when a few countries banned the aforementioned methods of communication). Michele wanted to know all the details of every day and listened eagerly while we described our adventures. She loved seeing our shopping treasures and cheered us on every country of the trip. Thanks, Michele. You are the best sister a girl could ever have!

Thank you to all the family, to all the wonderful guides and drivers we had throughout the trip, to the people we met who helped us understand the cultures and sights we saw.

But most of all, thank you America. We learned how much we treasure our freedoms, our clean water, our fabulous health care system, our magnificent highways and our comforting food.

After we rest up from these kidney stones, where do you want to go next family?

 

 

What I learned about America while visiting the Middle East

July 16, 2015 by Terry Van Nortwick 4 Comments

We’ve been in the Middle East for the past three weeks and although we’ve only scratched the surface of this region, I come away with impressions and memories that will last a lifetime. It’s impossible not to relate everything we have seen to the lives we lead in America. Here are the top five things I’ve learned about life in America compared to life in the Middle East.

1. I am so happy to pay taxes in the United States in return for the many freedoms we have. Every country we visited has incredible benefits due to the wealth oil has brought to this area (except Jordan). In all the United Arab Emirates (UAE) countries, people born in the country from parents born in the country (known as Nationals) enjoy the following benefits: no one pays any property, sales or income taxes; interest-free loans are available for purchase of homes; gas is subsidized and folks pay about 60 cents per gallon; healthcare and education are free; nationals are often given property or homes; cost of food is subsidized; in Kuwait you can retire after working just 10 years; jobs are given to nationals by the government. And many of these jobs were described to us as being pretty easy. Most government workers go to work at 9 am and leave at 2 or 3 pm.

However wonderful these benefits sound to us, there are freedoms not available to most Middle Easterners that we take for granted in the US. All countries are operated by ruling families — some of which have been in power since the 1700s. No one seems to know much about these families. The Sultan of Oman lives in tremendous wealth, but details of his life are kept secret. Our guide in Oman explained: “we couldn’t understand his life, so there is no need for us to know about it.” In Kuwait, we asked our guide about the ruling family and he told us no one knows how many wives or children they have. We do know that when the Gulf War erupted in 1990, they all quickly left for the safety of Saudi Arabia.

The press is really not free. No journalist can criticize the government and certainly no individuals would be wise to lash out against any leaders or government officials. In the UAE, there were cameras everywhere and we were told that tickets are issued quite frequently.

2. Thank God America has separation of church and state. Now I know we aren’t perfect with this freedom, but we’re doing pretty well. We happened to be in the Middle East during Ramadan, the 30-day festival of fasting and religious reflection for Muslims. It is a time when Muslims don’t eat from sun-up to sun-down.

For non-Muslims, it is a time when we must follow the rules set by the governments. These include, no eating, drinking (even water) or chewing gum in public. All restaurants are closed during this time. The only places for non-Muslim tourists to eat lunch are hotel restaurants orimage room service. When we first arrived in Dubai, we were given the list of rules at our hotel. We had a full day tour and when we got in the car with our guides, we inquired about lunch. (If you know me, you know I NEVER miss lunch — my favorite meal of the day!) We were told we could get fast-food. So when lunch time rolled around, we were dropped off at the local McDonalds, went inside, ordered our lunch and had to bring our bags of burgers and fries out to the car where we were OK to eat — as long as no one saw us eating!

We found these rules to be universal throughout our Middle East trip. So even when strolling through the incredibly huge malls, all the restaurants were closed until sun-down, when everyone was allowed to eat at precisely sundown time.

Dear Jewish friends, I am sorry we overwhelm you with all our Christmas stuff in December. I now understand how you must feel!!!

3. Thank goodness American women are free and equal. Yeah, I know we are paid 79 cents to the dollar and we still don’t really rule corporate America. But, believe me, we are miles ahead of the Middle East. Men here are the center of the universe. Most women stay home with the kids. Homes are built with huge walls around them, so the women can come out in the evening without cover and spend time with their families.

Women are not allowed to pray in the mosques near the men. We were told men would not be able to focus on their prayers if they could look at women. American Moms, thank you for teaching your sons to have self-control.

But at least we get to wear whatever we want. I really do get the modest dress thing. Being covered would be great when you are having a bad hair day or just don’t want to dress up. But I gotta say, do my forearms and my hair really turn men on so much that they can’t control themselves? Enough said.

4. Thank you, America, for restricting cigarette smoking! Arabic restaurants have a smoking and non-smoking section and hotels still allow smoking in the rooms. Yikes!

5. How wonderful it is to live in a country with a varied terrain. Don’t get me wrong. I love me a desert and some sand. But except for Jordan and Oman, there is a heck of a lot of same, same.

All this said, the people here are wonderful and kind. When you realize that most of the Middle East was just a rural fishing village with no real wealth or assets just 60 years ago, you have to recognize how much has yet to change and develop. Once oil was discovered in the late 1930s and brought to market in the late 1940s and 50s, things changed rapidly. While I love so much of the development and modernization we have now, some of the old ways are still charming and admirable.

Come see for yourself. The Middle East is safe and easy to visit. Just bring an open mind and don’t come during Ramadan!

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Hi, I’m Terry

Hi, I’m Terry and I love to travel. In 2010, I found the Traveler’s Century Club’s list of 324 countries in the world. After checking the list, I realized I’d been to more than 50 countries, so I decided I would make it my goal to visit 100. Well, I surpassed that goal and I figured: why stop now? Follow along with me as I continue the adventure! Terry in Havana, Cuba, country number 101!

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